Collingwood has had one of the better reputation overhauls of any Melbourne suburb. What was once an industrial working-class neighbourhood is now one of the most sought-after places to eat, drink, and stay in the country. It sits directly next to Fitzroy, shares that same inner north energy, and has carved out its own distinct character.

If you’re visiting Melbourne and haven’t spent time in Collingwood, you’re missing a significant part of what makes this city worth coming to.

The Lay of the Land

Collingwood is bounded by Johnston Street to the north, Hoddle Street to the east, the Yarra River to the south, and Smith Street to the west. That western edge, Smith Street, is the spine of the suburb and its commercial heartbeat. Heading east from Smith Street takes you into Collingwood proper: converted warehouses, independent studios, and bar laneways.

The suburb is a short walk or tram ride from the CBD. The Hurstbridge and Mernda train lines stop at Collingwood station, and trams run along Smith Street and Johnston Street frequently.

Smith Street: Voted the World’s Coolest Street

In 2022, Time Out named Smith Street in Collingwood the coolest street in the world. Not the coolest street in Melbourne, not in Australia: in the world. It beat out streets in Tokyo, New York, London, and every other city that would typically claim that kind of title.

The ranking wasn’t a surprise to anyone who spends time here. Smith Street has the density of good things per block that most neighbourhoods in other cities take entire suburbs to achieve. Coffee at one end, natural wine at the other, and independent restaurants, bars, record stores, and studios in between. The strip runs from Johnston Street down to Victoria Parade, and it rarely has a dead stretch.

What makes it work is the mix. Smith Street isn’t a tourist precinct or a designed dining destination. It evolved that way because rents were historically affordable enough for independent operators to take a chance, and those operators stayed and built something real. The result is a street that feels genuinely local even when it’s busy.

If you’re visiting Collingwood and only have an hour, walk Smith Street end to end. That’s enough to understand why it got the ranking.

Where to Eat and Drink

Collingwood’s food and drink scene is genuinely excellent:

• Lune Croissanterie on Rose Street is consistently named among the world’s best bakeries. Get there early — the queue moves fast but the croissants sell out.
• Marion on Gertrude Street is the wine bar that helped put the neighbourhood on the map — natural wine, small plates, and a room that always feels like somewhere.
• Easey’s on Easey Street — burgers in a pair of train carriages on a rooftop, with views across the suburb. It sounds gimmicky. It works.
• Bar Liberty on Johnston Street has one of the best wine lists in Melbourne and food to match.
• Ichi-ban Boshi on Smith Street — the best ramen in the area. Simple, no fuss, always busy.

What to Do

The Collingwood Children’s Farm on St Heliers Street is a proper urban farm by the Yarra — one of those only-in-Melbourne things that’s worth an hour regardless of whether you’re travelling with kids.

Collingwood’s warehouse district east of Smith Street has become a hub for artist studios, creative agencies, and small-batch manufacturers. The area around Oxford Street has galleries worth checking out.

The Smith Street and Johnston Street strips reward slow walking. Independent bookshops, vinyl stores, ceramics studios, clothing labels — the kind of retail that actually has something interesting on the shelves.

Getting Around

Collingwood is extremely well connected. The 86 tram runs along Smith Street directly into the CBD. The train at Collingwood station gets you to Flinders Street in under 10 minutes. On foot, it’s an easy walk to Fitzroy, Abbotsford, and the Yarra Trail.

Where to Stay in Collingwood

Collingwood doesn’t have a lot of traditional hotel options, which makes short-term rentals the obvious choice for the area. Artist Abodes offers boutique short-stay properties in Collingwood and neighbouring Fitzroy — all styled with genuine care, fully equipped, and positioned perfectly for the kind of stay this suburb is built for.

You’re within walking distance of everything covered in this guide. Book direct for the best rates and early check-in.

Explore more: While you are in the area, there is plenty more to discover. See our experience guides on Melbourne art galleries and the NGV, Melbourne nightlife in the inner north, and walking tours through Melbourne’s laneways and street art.